I haven’t surfed in many years. My longboard patiently waits in the garage and greets me every time I pull into the garage. Maybe “greets” is a misnomer… Frown or scowl might be a more accurate description. I’m glad it can’t talk because it would be screaming at me by this point. If only Becker San Onfre surfboards could talk.
I have lots of
really good excuses for why I haven’t surfed in such a long time… my knees hurt, my back hurt, I couldn’t find my wetsuit, it just rained for the first time in Southern California and who wants to be out in the water with all the toxins from the run-off, it’s too long a drive to the beach, I don’t have any change for the parking meters. My muscles will be so stiff afterwards. Pathetic, I know.
Look, board, I could have sold you already on any number of occasions. You have excellent resale value. I’m keeping you because we will surf again. I promise. I will put the surboard rack on the car and pull you out of the garage and maybe spray off the spider webs first. We’ll drive to Santa Monica and find a place to park (yes, I’ll bring quarters). I will carry you out to the waters edge and pull on the wetsuit… no idea if it will still fit. I probably won’t bother to put any more wax on you b/c as I recall from five years ago, you had plenty. I will carry you to the water and gently place you in again… As the cold water seeps into my westsuit, the world will melt away and we’ll be paddling out to the waves and looking for some fun rides…
I’ll be exhausted but exhilarated… I’ll pay the price the next day but it will be worth it and we will do it again throughout the summer. Thank you, board, for your patience.